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Core Repairs
Pearson utilized balsa cored construction for both the hull and
deck. Cored construction provides a structure that is very stiff, and is
significantly lighter than a solid glass hull of equal thickness. Cores of
foam, and plywood have been utilized, but balsa wood continues to be the most wide spread
coring material in use. Problems arise when water is able to penetrate the glass
laminate and is absorbed by the balsa. In the case of the the Flyer, there were a
couple of areas where the factory used coring techniques that might be considered
questionable, and the results can be significant areas of damage. The cure for
this cancer is radical surgery removal of either the inner or outer
fiberglass skin, removal of the rotten core, and new glass being laminated in place.
In the case of Wavelength the medical bill was in excess of
$8,000. Below are some thumbnails photos, along with a description.
Click on the thumbnail for a larger view.
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This
shot is forward of the port bulkhead. Sealing
around the forward jib track, and chainplate had failed, allowing water into the deck
core. The damage extended fore and aft of the
bulkhead. Here the inner laminate and coring
have been cut back to find solid balsa. |
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Similar
problem on the starboard side. Note the water
stains on the bulkhead. This water staining
unfortunately also suggests the possibility of rot in the bulkhead which was the
case. As a result, the bulkhead will also be
replaced. On the starboard side, the rear
genoa tracks were also leaking, so a similar area also required recoring further aft.
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Here
is another shot of the keel area. Most of the
water that got into the boat came from the bilge. In
several areas the inner skin thickness was minimal poor quality control during
layup. These thin areas allowed water to
migrate thru to the core. More commonly this
occurs around thru-hull fittings where the core is not properly isolated, but that
wasnt the case on Wavelength the thru-hulls were well sealed.
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Here
is shot showing the aft edge of the keel. You
can get a great idea of the laminate schedule from this view. The coring extends all the way to the centerline of
the hull (which is built in two halves). A
better choice might have been to stop the core several inches on either side of the
centerline, and switch to solid glass in this area, particularly around the keel. The repairs to my boat will include 5 layers of
glass in the area immediately around the keel. |
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Here
is an area of the deck after the core has been replaced.
Note the greenish colored strip down the middle of the repair. In this area, solid glass was epoxied into place
coinciding with the location of the jib tracks, above.
The tracks were originally installed in an area cored with balsa. Many boats are built with plywood, or solid glass
in areas where highly loaded hardware is to be located not so on the Flyer. By changing to solid glass, the deck under these
fittings is less likely to compress, and the glass isolates the core so any future leaks
are much less likely to cause any problems. |
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This
shot shows the now nearly complete repairs to the area surrounding the starboard jib track
and chainplate. The bulkhead has been mounted
and tabbed to the hull, the chainplate has been refitted, and the jib track installed. The bulkhead still needs to have its finish
applied, but structurally, its complete. The
new paint on the inner hull really brightened the interior, and it looks nearly new! |
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A shot of the
starboard Genoa
track installation. A decision was made to use
aluminum bar stock as a backer instead of fender washers.
This eliminates point loading of the fasteners, and results in a stronger
installation. I also think its a cleaner
looking installation. The factory originally
supplied molded covers that did a nice job of covering the fasteners, but they had been
removed from my boat long before I bought it. |
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The
new floor is in. We went with teak and holly
here, like the main cabin, a part of which is just visible at the bottom of the photo. In this shot, the new floor has not yet had any
finish applied, but its obvious that its going to make the existing cabin sole
look pretty shabby (I needed another project?) |
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Here
is a shot of the keel area, the repairs now nearly complete.
Note the brownish colored circular area in the upper right. This area has been faired, and is really complete. When the hull is finished, all the remaining bottom
paint will be stripped, a barrier coat applied, and finally bottom paint applied once the
bottom is fully smooth. |
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Here the hull core repairs are
completed and faired. The next step will be to strip the rest of the hull, barrier
coat, and bottom paint. It's been a long road, but the result should be a sound deck
and hull good for another 20 years or more of great sailing! |
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Wavelength the day she came
out of the shed. We went with an Interlux InterProtect 2000 Barrier coat (8 coats),
which was then sanded and Interlux VC-17 Extra bottom paint. A smooth, fast bottom. |
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Another example of wet core
repair. A freind's Santana 35 had wet/rotted core over about 80 of the deck area.
Ouch! |
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